If there’s one place on New Zealand’s South Island that stole my heart, it’s undoubtedly the Te Anau and Milford Sound area. A corner of the world where time seems to stand still, where the beauty of nature blends with an atmosphere of peace and serenity. Here, I even found my dream campsite, facing the lake with a breathtaking view—especially at sunset. A unique experience I will never forget.
What to Do in Te Anau and Milford Sound
As the gateway to Fiordland National Park, the small town of Te Anau sits beside one of New Zealand’s most spectacular lakes: Te Ana-au, sacred to the Māori, immersed in absolute tranquility, surrounded by mountains and forests. This area is the heart of Fiordland National Park, one of New Zealand’s wildest and most spectacular regions. Here, nature reigns supreme, and there are countless ways to immerse yourself in this paradise. It’s no coincidence that this area was chosen to represent the mountainous kingdoms of Middle-earth in The Lord of the Rings films.
Give yourself at least three days to fully experience some of its wonders. I stayed for three days, but I would have gladly stayed for another week!
The Scenic Drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound
Milford Sound is New Zealand’s most accessible fjord, and every year, thousands of tourists travel this scenic road by car or motorcycle. (By bike, I must say it’s quite dangerous, as vehicles speed past in both directions, the road is narrow, and there’s no bike lane, making it risky.)
The journey starts in Te Anau and ends at the famous Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, a 120 km route through the heart of Fiordland National Park and the Te Wahipounamu – South-West New Zealand World Heritage Area. The drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound is one of the most scenic in the world.
I recommend taking your time—start early in the morning and return in the evening, so you have time to stop at scenic viewpoints along the way, take a few short hikes, and, if possible, enjoy a two-hour cruise on the fjord.
Scenic Stops Along the Route
1. Te Anau
Start your journey here!
Visit the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre to grab maps and get up-to-date information on New Zealand’s largest national park.
2. Henry Creek (23 km from Te Anau)
3. Lake Mistletoe (45 min return walk)
A family-friendly trail through a forest leading to the peaceful Lake Mistletoe, a perfect picnic spot.
4. Te Anau Downs (28 km from Te Anau)
This is the starting point for the Milford Track and offers stunning views of the Murchison Mountains, home to the rare takahē. Accommodation is available.
5. Te Anau Downs Historic Site
An important historical site with information panels about the early pioneer farmers of Fiordland.
6. Walker Creek (47 km from Te Anau)
7. Totara (50 km from Te Anau)
8. Mackay Creek (54 km from Te Anau)
9. Eglinton Valley (52 km from Te Anau)
Interpretive signs describe the valley’s geology and history.
10. Mirror Lakes (56 km from Te Anau, 10-min stop)
These small mountain lakes reflect the Earl Mountains—a great spot for a quick break and some stunning photos.
11. Deer Flat (59 km from Te Anau)
From here to Knobs Flat, you’ll cross the 45th parallel south.
My Experience on the Scenic Drive
I started my exploration at dawn, stopping at a small roadside gas station for a coffee take away. The kind-hearted owner gave me a detailed map, pointing out the best places to stop on the way to Milford Sound. Thanks to this map, I alternated between driving and short walks, taking my time to explore some of the region’s most spectacular spots.
At the end of the road, I decided to take a mini-cruise to admire the fjord from the water and see sights that would otherwise be inaccessible, such as:
✔ Towering waterfalls, plunging directly into the fjord.
✔ Seals, lazily sunbathing on the rocks.
✔ A glacier (or what little remains of it), a fascinating yet sad reminder of climate change.
There are no alternatives: or you either take the boat tour or a helicopter flight (which I personally didn’t consider due to its high cost and environmental impact).
Since I’m not a big fan of cruises because they’re not a sustainable means of travel, I looked for the smallest boat available. After explaining my values of responsible tourism at the visitor center, they recommended Mitre Peak Cruises, a family-run company with a small boat.Once I arrived at the port, I realized that it was the only company with a small boat, compared to the massive ships departing nearby, packed with people! (Terrifying!)
Moreover, having smaller boats allows for navigation closer to the coast, offering a more intimate experience with the incredible surrounding landscape. We practically reached right under the waterfalls, feeling the spray on my face, and got very close to the rocks, where the seals were lying peacefully, completely unfazed by us curious travelers. New Zealand’s seal colonies were once almost driven to extinction due to hunting.
Additionally, the boat was not crowded. This allowed me to enjoy the cruise in silence, truly taking in the landscape and nature without the distraction of tourists frantically taking photos. It was a pleasant and relaxing experience, lasting a couple of hours, with tea and hot coffee offered on board—perfect to warm up while admiring the fjord in all its majesty.
In two hours, the route passes through a series of points of interest, which are marked on the map and explained by the onboard guide.
Key Points of Interest on the Cruise
- Bowen Falls – At 162 meters, Milford Sound’s highest and most iconic waterfall.
- Mitre Peak – A 1,692-meter-high mountain, one of New Zealand’s most photographed.
- Milius Cove – A sheltered bay named after Captain Milius, who mapped the area in the 19th century.
- Copper Point – Named for its copper deposits, with reddish hues in the rocks.
- Fairy Falls – A thin, delicate waterfall that shimmers in the right light, creating a magical effect.
- Harrison Cove – A quiet bay home to an underwater observatory.
- Seal Rock – A resting spot for New Zealand fur seals.
- Stirling Falls – 151 meters high, one of the two permanent waterfalls in Milford Sound.
- Anita Bay – A historic gold mining site in the 19th century, now rich in wildlife.
- St. Anns Point – The Milford Sound Lighthouse, built in 1879.
In Milford Sound, you can also fly over the fjords by plane or helicopter, an experience that undoubtedly offers incredible views. I didn’t try it because the costs were particularly high, but what struck me the most was the constant noise of helicopters, taking off every five minutes to carry tourists on scenic flights. I wondered: what impact does all this have on the local wildlife, especially the birds? The beauty of Fiordland also lies in its silence, and the constant roar of engines in the sky seems like a contradiction in such a wild and untouched place.
On the way back, I stopped again for a three-hour trek along the Routeburn Track. The effort was rewarded with a spectacular view of Lake Howden and the Routeburn Falls.
Hiking in Fiordland: A Trekker’s Paradise
Fiordland is a dream destination for hikers! Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced trekker, there are trails for everyone:
- Short, easy walks: Lake Gunn Nature Walk, Milford Foreshore Walk, Lake Mistletoe Track.
- Half-day hikes: Key Summit Track, Lake Marian Track.
- Full-day hikes: Luxmore Hut (Kepler Track), The Divide to Earland Falls.
- Challenging hikes: Gertrude Saddle Route (for experienced hikers only).
Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park: the Perfect Campsite; A Little Piece of Paradise!
After so many adventures, I found the perfect place to relax: Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park, a campsite that sits right on the shore of Lake Te Ana-au, the second-largest lake in New Zealand. But in reality, it’s not just a simple campsite! I camped there, pitching my tent in a beautiful green space within the vast park, but the site offers a variety of accommodations to suit different needs and budgets:
- Cabins and deluxe cottages
- Family & Studio Motels
- Private rooms with en-suite bathrooms
- Backpacker dorms
- Spaces for campervans and tents for those, like me, who love wild camping.
The campsite has all the necessary facilities to make your stay comfortable:
- Two large kitchens
- A bright common area with lake views
- Modern and clean bathrooms & showers
- A bar
- An activity and excursion booking office
- And, most importantly, an incredibly friendly staff!
I initially planned to stay just one night, but in the end, I stayed for three nights! I never wanted to leave—Fiordland is truly a mystical and magical place!
At the campsite, by pure chance, I met the owner, a delightful person! We started chatting, and seeing my enthusiasm for the region, he invited me to join him on a private boat ride on Lake Manapouri. He even recommended some non-touristy spots where I could explore on my own. He dropped me off in a secluded area, and I was able to:
✔ Hike through the forest without encountering a single soul.
✔ Swim in a deserted lake beach, where I was completely alone!
✔ Enjoy absolute silence, surrounded only by untouched nature.
After my exploration, he picked me up by boat, and we went for a beer and an amazing fish and chips at the pub “The Church Manapouri.” and as if that weren’t enough, when he found out that I write books, he took me to Manapouri to visit a tiny mobile bookstore on wheels, run by a local writer, Ruth Shaw. An absolute gem, hidden deep in New Zealand’s remote south.
For more information about all the things you can do in Fiordland, check out the official website www.fiordland.org.nz. However, I personally always recommend talking to locals and visiting information centers when you arrive. They will have the most up-to-date info on events, activities, and places to explore—because there’s always something new and unexpected to discover!
